FAQs

FAQs

Frangipanis at a glance:

Plant type: Deciduous or semi-evergreen tree or shrub. The icon of the tropics, the frangipani, is an easy flower to grow. Frangipanis thrive with little maintenance; Frangipanis suit any style of garden and will cast a tropical spell over it.

Shape: Mature trees grow up to 6m high and 5m wide however older feature trees in open garden settings can reach over 8m after 30 years.

Location: Frangipanis need full sunshine and a fertile, free-draining soil. Sandy or sandy-loam soils are ideal. Frangipani trees have compact, non-invasive root systems, so they can be grown safely near pipes and cables or in narrow beds. They respond well to pruning too. To keep trees, compact and bushy, prune branches back by one-third in late summer

When to Plant:  Mainly spring to autumn. Any time of year in tropical climates, keep indoors or in sheltered position in colder climates prior to planting.

Flowers: Summer to autumn.

Patios and verandas: Can be grown in pots and larger containers.

Frangipani flowers: 100s of different shapes and colour combinations, 5 Petals, flowers evoke different emotions, depending on culture. In Australia they are known as backyard survivors, beating near-death experiences, their beautiful fragrance is a reminder of tropical holidays and special times with those we love. Everywhere they are grown, their flowers are scattered in pools and bowls as a finishing touch before special events and in wedding bouquets. You can even order fresh frangipani flowers by mail.

Where did the Frangipani originate?

The Plumeria, or frangipani as it is commonly known, is a small genus in the dogbane family and it contains about eight species from tropical America. They are mainly deciduous or semi evergreen shrubs and small trees and they have simple, smooth edged leaves on fleshy branches. Plumeria Rubra, is native to tropical America, Mexico, and Venezuela. It is known for its beautiful and fragrant flowers, the colours of which can vary enormously from white with a yellow centre, through shades of apricot and right through to pink and even dark red. 

Frangipani was the name given to an Italian fragrance created in the 16th century by the Marquis Frangipani. When the Italians started cultivating these plants, the fragrance of the flowers reminded them so strongly of the perfume that the name stuck.

The frangipani reaches about 8 metres high and can spread as wide as 4.5 metres. But they are slow growing and in cooler climates take longer to reach mature height.

Commonly called the “Hawaiian Lei flower”, they grow as shrubs or small trees and can be kept in containers on the patio or in the garden and brought indoors for the winter.

How to prune Frangipani?

Pruning is easiest in winter, following leaf drop, but heavy pruning sacrifices the spring blooms. Stems that are shrivelled and bent or damaged can be removed back to their juncture with a main branch and destroyed. 

Many old trees in home landscapes have responded well to the pruning practice known as stag horning in Australia. Stag horning is a method in which a framework of branches is established with yearly pruning back on each main limb to a point where sub branching resembles a stag horn shape. 

This head develops several growing points because of the pruning, and each year a new group of shoots is produced. In plumeria, the new shoots may develop flowers late in the year if stag horning is done during the dormant season. Stag horning during the summer growing season will produce a series of short branches that will not set a flower head but will go dormant in autumn and grow out as longer branches the next year, many of which will flower in late summer.

Prune or wound dressing is available from most hardware stores such as Bunnings and when applied protects the cut surface as it heals, and a new growth of cells and bark covers the cut surface.

Thinning out 15 to 20 percent of the canopy of your mature frangipani is good to do every few years; it opens the branches, allows light in, and reduces stem rot.

Occasionally, you may need to prune your frangipani to restrict size, tidy a broken branch or to remove an inconvenient branch. On older trees, look for any branches that have started rubbing or crossing over, or have stopped producing foliage or flowers, and remove them.

Growing Plumeria in Australia

Plumeria Rubra and the wide range of hybrids are frost tender, so in Australia it is widely grown in the tropical and subtropical areas of Western Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland and in warmer coastal positions in Victoria and South Australia. I have seen specimens growing in glasshouses in Tasmania and New Zealand and in gardens in the North Island of New Zealand.

Growing frangipani in warmer coastal climates

Plumeria is a common ornamental in yards and other planned landscapes. It is easy to grow in hot, dry areas and is found in Australia from sea level to the mountain ranges in warmer parts of Australia. It requires full sun and grows best in well drained, slightly acidic soil. It has moderate wind resistance and salt tolerance.

To flower well, Plumerias require at least a half-day of direct sun, but they perform best in full sun.

Prevent mulch from touching the base of frangipani trunks, as otherwise you are encouraging basal rot to occur during wet weather.

6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight is needed for good blooming of your plumeria. Some varieties require some shade from the hot inland sun in the summer months.

Growing frangipani in cooler frosty climates

Plumerias are very sensitive to frost and if grown in containers they can be moved inside when night temperatures in autumn start to drop below 10 DegC. If conditions indoors allow for continued growth, provide water on a regular basis, but only after the soil becomes moderately dry. If conditions are less than ideal, allow the plant to go dormant for the remainder of winter. During this time, plumerias require no water or light. All the leaves will be shed and the plant will resemble a defoliated tree limb or a stick, and will rest until spring. Move outdoors only after all danger of frost is past and night temperatures stay above 10 DegC.

Always plant frangipanis at the same depth as they were in the container and keep mulches from touching the base. Their trunks are prone to fungal decay, particularly in cold, wet weather.

The further south you live in Australia and the further inland you grow frangipanis the more important warmth, drainage, sunshine and frost protection become for establishment.

Planting near masonry walls, buildings or in paved areas provides shelter from wintry winds and reflects warmth. Frangipanis grow about 30–60cm a year, depending on climate and care. Frost kills shoot tips, and damaged tissue can decay, leading to dieback. This is not fatal but spoils appearances and reduces flowering. Cut back affected stems to a healthy branch in spring.

In cooler areas it is still possible to grow frangipani if the microclimate around the house is warm. Radiating sun and heat from brick paving, walls or mirrors will help the frangipani withstand cooler winters, so keep them close to the house.

Frangipani on verandas and patios

Plumeria can be grown to a relatively large size in large tubs

Plumerias also grow somewhat in proportion to the size of the container they are planted in. For example, in a 300mm pot size a plumeria will grow to about 1 meter or so, but in a larger pot, the plant can grow much larger.

Always plant frangipanis at the same depth as they were in the container and keep mulches from touching the base. Their trunks are prone to fungal decay, particularly in cold, wet weather.

To grow frangipanis in containers, particularly plastic pots, use a premium-grade potting mix without added wetting agents or water crystals. Terracotta pots benefit growth. They are porous, which helps drainage while discouraging root-rot. 

In addition to this, container-grown frangipanis can become top-heavy. The weight of a terracotta pot can help balance this. Terracotta also warms in sunshine, helping frangipanis succeed in cooler climates.

How to water Frangipani?

For best growth and flowering in the landscape, irrigation is needed during dry periods of the growing season.

Keep the soil evenly moist during the summer growing season but allow some drying to occur in between thorough watering’s. Always avoid soggy conditions, as this could lead to root rot. On the other hand, excessive dryness will result in yellow leaves and foliage loss.

But be careful not to over-water frangipanis as they prefer to be on the dry side and too much water can prove disastrous

Water regularly to help plants establish during the summer growing season but allow plants to go dry in between watering’s. Never saturate soil. After the first season following planting, your frangipani may need infrequent watering’s during summer conditions if little rain autumns to improve root system development and uptake of nutrients to aid in growth and strong seasonal flowering. 

Water is very important to your plumeria. Your plant must have enough water in the summer months. Without adequate water your frangipani could go into a suspended state or dormancy. The plant will abort flower stalks and the leaves will drop. Watering depends on the daytime temperature and humidity; a good balance is essential. Plumerias do not like standing water, do not use a catch bowl under a potted Plumeria.

When the plant drops its leaves in the cool autumn and winter months cut back watering. Give it only enough water is necessary to keep the soil slightly moist. Mist the stem if it begins to look wrinkled.

Plumeria should almost be treated like cactus or succulent. The major thing that can go wrong with growing frangipanis is that people tend to overwater their plants.

Feeding Frangipani nutrients is important

Fertilize plumeria with a high analysis NPK a couple of times during the growing season at about 100g per 25mm of trunk diameter, distributing the fertilizer evenly within the growing area under the tree canopy and extending just beyond the canopy or foliage line

A regular fertilization program with a formulation high in phosphorus will produce vigorous plants with large clusters of flowers that generally appear from early summer into autumn. “Blossom booster” fertilizers give excellent results. 

Avoid fertilizers just high in nitrogen, which tend to produce leggy plants with few blooms. Feed every other week during the growing season but discontinue in late summer to allow the new growth to harden off prior to winter.

A well-fed frangipani makes a more robust, disease-resistant plant and fertilisers that have a balanced micro-nutrient supplement are ideal.

Although in fertile soils frangipani rarely need feeding, they will flower bigger and better than ever if you spread some fertiliser around the drip line (under the branches) during spring and summer.

Minor pests and diseases of Frangipani

Plumerias are fairly resistant to insects and diseases, though spider mites will sometimes infest buds and new growth, especially indoors when conditions are hot, and the humidity is low. Spider mites can be controlled with forceful sprays of cool water that are strong enough to knock them from the plant. If need be, low toxicity sprays can be used. 

Frangipani rust, Coleosporium plumeriae, was first detected in Queensland in 1993 and has now spread to many parts of Australia. Look for masses of tiny yellow-orange spots on leaf undersides during spring to autumn. Mature spots, called pustules, release spores that dust foliage below. Infected leaves autumn early. Remove and dispose of the infected leaves in the garbage because they are a source of reinfection. Frangipani rust is not fatal to a tree and helps in some cases to drop leaves ready for winter. Spraying early with sulphur or a copper-based fungicide helps control it but will not eliminate the problem.

A black sooty mold develops on stems and leaves when scale insects, whiteflies, or mealybugs are present. These insects exude a sweet, sticky honeydew upon which the fungus flourishes. Although unsightly, the fungus does not harm the tree (although the insects weaken it). Ants nourish the insects and carry them up into the trees. The control for the sooty mould problem lies with control of the insects.

When do Frangipanis flower

Frangipani flowers are tubular, expanding into a “pinwheel” of five petals that averages 50 to 75mm in diameter and may be white, red, yellow, pink, or multiple colors. Flowers of most cultivars are highly fragrant and bloom for extended periods. The hybrids differ in their profusion of blooms, with some producing more than 200 flowers per cluster and others only 50–60 flowers.

With plants starting from cuttings, flowers can be expected within the first year, depending on the original cutting size and the time of year that it was taken.

In Australia plumerias typically begin blooming mid-summer and continue until early autumn. In warmer regions of the country, they may bloom continuously from September through to April, the flowers they produce are incredible. Being related to periwinkles, they have very similar flowers in a broad range of colours, and the fragrances they produce are amazing — from citrus to coconut, jasmine to peach and just about every sweet scent in between.

Most Frangipani lose their leaves for winter

Most frangipanis grown in Australia are deciduous types, the leaves begin to drop in autumn and during wintertime. New leaves emerge during or following the spring flowering period. P. obtusa and its hybrids can retain their foliage year-round.

When temperatures drop below 10 DegC, plumerias will begin to lose their leaves and go dormant. At that point, in cooler climates and planted in containers they need to be over-wintered, either in the garage or in the house. Once dormant, you don’t want to do anything to them again, which means no watering and no fertilizing. 

They may not look much but they will be fine when spring rolls around again. We find them easy growing plants that gardeners all over the country can enjoy, and once you grow them, you will love them just as much as we do.

Leaf drop allows the frangipani to carpet the soil under the plant and build a deep mulch layer that helps to retain moisture in the warmer growing months. This mulch layer protects the new root tips near the soil surface, cycles nutrients that are drawn up during the growing season into the leaves, from deep within the soil profile to enriches the feeder roots near the soil surface during the growing period.

How big do Frangipanis grow?

Frangipanis are slow growing and take time to reach full maturity.

Plumeria is generally a small tree growing to as much as 6 meters. I have had the opportunity to see mature trees in Hawaii that stand over 8m in height and carpet the ground under the trees with beautiful flowers.

Usually the round-headed canopy is often about as wide as the tree is tall however you can prune trees to any shape that you choose.

The Australian hybrids vary somewhat in tree size, compactness, and branching character, leaf and flower size and colour.

The trees reach maturity in about five years in the tropics however they are slower growing in the cooler climates.

Sourcing larger advanced landscape trees is popular when planning a garden feature in cooler locations in Australia.

What soil type do Frangipanis like?

Frangipanis are not fussy and suit a wide range of soils, but well-draining soils are essential. In areas with heavier soils, plant in raised beds with free draining mix or in pots filled with good-quality potting mix.

Waterlogging quickly kills roots, especially in southern Australian winters. Keep cuttings and plants dry in winter. In clay soils, plant trees in a mound 15cm above the surface to help drainage.

Plumerias, roses, citrus trees and fruit trees are happy in soils with pH 6 to 6.5. 

Plumeria plants require slightly acidic soil. Constant fertilization can drop the pH by increasing the acidity of the soil. However, if this happens obtain a soil additive from your local hardware that can be added to the soil to increase pH levels.

If plants continue to struggle in clay soils where it is hard for water to drain away, lift them out and replant into large containers where you can manage their growth and enjoy the flowers.

How do Frangipanis produce seed?

Plumerias occasionally produce seed. When pollinated, the flower produces up to two hard, narrow, pointed pods 100 to 150mm long containing 20–60 winged seeds. Maturation of the seed pods is usually in early spring from a previous season’s pollination.

In mass plantings of different frangipani types the incidence of pod set or pollination is increased with the attraction of night flying moths that fly from flower to flower and naturally cross pollinate flowers. This technique has been used in Australia by Fancy Frangipanis to produce natural hybrids that exhibit the most amazing variations in flower shape, colour, and perfume.

It can take from 3 to 15 years to see the results of these crosses, however if you are patient it is worth the wait.

Growing Frangipani from cuttings.

Frangipanis are sold globally as unrooted cuttings. They travel well in the mail and this technique helps to overcome quarantine restrictions around the movement of soil and potting mixes. Propagating frangipanis by cutting maintains the selected cultivar. Tip or branched cuttings 300 to 400mm long should be allowed to “cure” in a shaded dry place for at least two weeks before planting. 

Cuttings can be planted into pots or directly in the ground if you live in a warm climate. If planting into the ground ensure you have a well-drained soil and in clay or heavier soils add in organic potting mix and sand into the soil area that you wish to plant your cutting and work this into the soil to make a well drained rooting environment.

At first they may not look much as a cutting but these plant tips when grown well will strike easily and the first flowers are sure to please. Regardless of what you pay, the first thing you want to do when you acquire one of these cuttings is get it to take root. Fancy Frangipanis has a proven technique that is a lot of fun and it is easy.

Remove the cuttings from your post pack and store them in a shady place with good air circulation. Allow the cutting to air dry for about 7-10 days before potting.

Fill a tall 200mm plus depth pot with a potting mix such as a seedling raising or succulent mix that is well drained and can be obtained from a local hardware such as Bunnings.

Dip the cut end in a rooting compound available from hardware stores such as Bunnings which can enhance rooting. Frangipanis root readily so this is not a requirement for rooting however our experience has shown that rooting compounds can increase the number of roots that form on a cutting. 

Insert the cutting into the centre of the pot down to a depth of around 100mm or two thirds of the way down the pot and then press the mix down around the surface of the pot to ensure the cutting stands up on its own. In a lighter potting mix and with a larger cutting we often insert a bamboo or timber stake beside the cutting which is then secured with garden twine to keep the cutting upright and firm while it sets a strong root system. Frangipani roots are quite fragile during early stages of development. 

Water up the potting mix and allow it to drain, then place the pot in a sheltered position where it receives mottled or 4-6 hours of sunlight. Roots should form in 60 to 90 days in warmer months. Do not water too much or too often while rooting is occurring. Leave the cutting as is for a couple of months and do not water, fertilize, or do anything. Everything the plant needs to form leaves as well as roots is contained within the milky sap of the cutting itself. 

It is okay to put your plumeria cuttings outside, providing temperatures are above 20 DegC both day and night. Otherwise in cooler climates you should put them inside in a nice, bright, sunny windowsill until you are ready to plant them. Just remember, the more heat and light your cuttings get, the faster they will root.

Once the cutting has formed a set of leaves, you can also assume the cutting has started taking root. At that time, you should move your plumeria to a spot that gets at least six hours of sun daily and apply a slow release fertiliser or drench with slow release fertilisers at recommended rate for the product and your pot size.

The young root systems are brittle, and transplanting, if necessary, must be done carefully. Do not leave plants in small containers too long, or the circling roots will cause problems of weak establishment when the plant is transplanted into the landscape.

How to plant Frangipanis

Before planting frangipanis loosen up the soil and add compost or organic matter. For clay soils, work in gypsum at the recommended rate to improve air and water movement. Planting in a mound, about 15cm above the surface, improves drainage in clay.

Transplant during the warm seasons when recovery is fastest. Retain as many roots as possible and firmly stake until strong anchoring roots develop, this usually takes about 12 months.

Always plant frangipanis at the same depth as they were in the container and keep mulches from touching the base. Their trunks are prone to fungal decay, particularly in cold, wet weather.

When planting, dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. Work in organic matter and manures, in heavier soils apply Use an open mix along with one-part soil and one-part compost. Combine the cactus mix and soil at the bottom. Make sure the root ball is 25mm above the soil.

Growing Frangipani from seed

Plumeria can be propagated from seed. Fancy Frangipanis has hybrid seed available for purchase which we collect from our stock gardens. 

If you collect your own seed from plants with white flowers it produces mostly white-flowered seedlings. Similarly, dark red will produce red, and yellow will produce yellow, but pinks and multicolored plants are more likely to produce a range of colours in the seedlings. 

Although this is a rule of thumb our experience has shown that natural cross pollination occurs in frangipani seed set amongst mixed plantings of frangipani with amazing variations in flower shape and colours evident in flowering seedlings.  Frangipani flowers are most fragrant at night in order to lure sphinx moths, just one type of night flying moth that has been shown to cross pollinate them.

Collect seeds when the pod dries and splits open exposing the rows of winged seeds. Sow them shallowly in pots or trays. Dry seeds will keep for about three months in a plastic bag before beginning to lose viability. Seeds germinate in about two weeks. Transplant seedlings to individual pots when one or two pairs of true leaves have developed, and move the plant up to a larger container until it is large enough to plant out

Seedlings take around three years or more to produce flowers. Some seedlings in our collections have been known to take up to 12 years to commence flowering.

Plumeria Seeds are one of the most sought-after seeds in the world because their flowers are one of the most exotic and beautiful breeds in any garden.

Planting avenues and feature hedge rows

When plumeria is grown for commercial flower production, it is planted 3 meters apart within rows and 4 meters between rows and pruned to keep the canopy low, encourage branching, and make harvesting the flowers more convenient. 

Branched cuttings are selected for propagating, and the branch axil is set low to the ground to result in a shorter-statured plant. 

Harvesting Frangipani flowers and making leis

Plumeria flowers are excellent lei flowers and are especially common and traditional for home-made leis. To harvest the flowers, grasp individual blossoms at the base and remove them from the plant with a gentle tug. Blooms may be strung lengthwise on strings about 38–40 inches long, or the lei may be formed by stringing the flowers crosswise through the lower part of the flower tube. Flowers can be kept for several days in a plastic bag stored at 7-10 DegC temperatures.

Frangipani flowers are also traditionally used in leis – Hawaiian necklaces made from leaves, seashells, ivory and flowers. The leis are made by stringing flowers through the centre until a complete necklace is formed. Polynesian custom is that leis are worn at weddings and given out to signify a genuine welcome – and a fond farewell – for visitors to Hawaii.

In Hawaii and modern Polynesian culture, the frangipani can be worn by women to indicate their relationship status – over the right ear if seeking a relationship, and over the left if taken.

All parts of Frangipani exude milky sap

Take care in handling frangipanis flowers and plant parts as all parts of the plant exude a milky sap when damaged. The sap may irritate eyes and skin. 

Frangipanis do have a milky sap that can be irritating on some people’s skin, causing rashes, and minor blistering in extreme cases. If ingested, the sap can cause vomiting and diarrhoea.

Choosing a variety

The classic white-flowering frangipani is the first to flower and remains a favourite for many. At fancy frangipanis I have over 500 different types of frangipani in my collection with 1500 seedling grown hybrids being evaluated in our nurseries and farm.

I have selected 120 different flower and plant types to share with garden enthusiasts within Australia and showcase on my fancy frangipanis website. In this collection you will see flower colours from pale pinks to butter lemon to the vibrant shades of peach, mango, lipstick, orange, pink and blood red, there is now a frangipani in every colour even lilac and lavender. They also come in bicolour and tricolours with striped petals.

Petal shapes also vary from thick, overlapping scalloped petals to elegant, elongated petals. The beauty of frangipanis is they can last with you forever, we just love them.

New flower types and colour combinations have new fragrances, and it is interesting to discern vanilla, coconut, apricot and jasmine fragrances in some varieties. 

The Singapore Evergreen White frangipani (Plumeria obtuse) is a favourite in any garden. The large glossy white and lemon-yellow centred flowers set against the glossy green leaves is just stunning. Reaching 5m high this plant is ideal for city gardens in the tropics and subtropics and the perfume is just so rich and tropical.

Frangipanis in the garden

Frangipanis are a spectacular plant. Their flowers and fragrance bring a romantic feeling to any garden, and they will never go out of fashion because they are drought tolerant.

Despite breeding advances in flower colour and shape, frangipani fragrance remains the true prize. Grow them where you can appreciate their delicious scent, which intensifies at night. 

Their size and umbrella-shaped silhouette make frangipanis ideal for landscapes large and small. In summer they cast dappled shade, they line footpaths to create beautiful avenues and they are ideal for framing distant views – perhaps a beach. Use a pair either side of an entrance to create a sense of welcome or employ spotlighting to dramatically illuminate their flowers and shapely form.

Grow them in lawns and let their flowers cover the ground. Their leafless branches in the cooler months allow sunshine to filter through, just right for brightening a patio in winter. Their light canopy can be underplanted with perennials, their forked branches support hanging baskets and their trunks can be used for growing epiphytes, such as ferns, orchids, and colourful foliage plants such as cordylines and bromeliads. 

Grown in tubs, frangipanis make colourful pool-side specimens and are ideal for hot or sunny balconies or patios.

Where to plant a Frangipani?

Use the shape of the frangipani tree to your advantage in the garden, taking note of its wide umbrella shape. Plant it somewhere you can admire it from up close, near a window or veranda where you can fully appreciate the flowers and fragrance. 

Take advantage of the shade it gives which can be a blessing on hot summer days. Plant one on the western side of your house to help shade the house in summer and allow the sun to stream in during winter when the stems are bare. 

Plant one at the front gate to welcome you home each day, or beside a quiet pool to create a relaxed scene. They love growing by the beach in sandy soils and are one of the best trees for tolerating salty air along the coast.

Mature frangipanis can grow to around 6m high and 5m wide, although older trees can be taller in tropical climates. They grow slowly, only about 20cm per year. This, along with their small root ball, makes them ideal for planting around pools, in planter beds, containers and beside walls, as there is no fear the roots will harm any structures.

Trees around pools can be trained to tilt from a young age giving the impression the tree is 

Frangipanis can flower from October to April, and thrive in well-drained soil, plenty of sun and frost-free conditions.

Growing healthy frangipanis is easy and a lot of fun.

These tips from Fancy Frangipanis on how you can grow a frangipani tree from a cutting and create a tropical paradise in your garden have come from years of selecting and growing our own frangipanis from cuttings.

The heavenly fragrance of frangipanis makes them a wonderful tree to have in your garden. Their classy range of colours and flower types are hard to find in any other flowering plant with varieties featuring blooms flushed with pink, apricot and red.

Even though Frangipanis (Plumeria sp.) are deciduous, their flowers can be enjoyed for several months of the year, appearing from October/November and lasting well into April.

Although the ideal time to take cuttings is just as the trees are coming out of dormancy right through to the end of summer, cuttings can be taken and struck at any time of the year if handled correctly.

Striking a Cutting

A piece of frangipani around 300mm long is selected from out stock gardens.

All leaves and buds have been removed and the cutting is cured in our facilities for a couple of days before packing and sending.

On arrival each cutting will be labelled and wrapped in a plastic sleave. Unwrap the cutting and place in a shady spot to dry out and form a callus. This takes around 7-10 days.

Fill the supplied planter grow bag or your own pot (Select one that is over 20cm in depth) with a sandy, free-draining potting mix. Bunnings has a good range of potting mixes and so do the local hardware stores. A seedling raising mix is suitable for striking cuttings and we have trialled many of these with great success.

Fill the planter bag up with potting mix, then firmly push the base of the cutting into the mix until it is inserted to around 100mm into the middle of the bag or pot. Firm the mix around the cutting and position the potted cutting in a sunny, warm, wind-sheltered spot.

Water after potting and soak the potting mix to ensure that it is has absorbed water. Some potting mixes when first bought are quite dry and require soaking to wet up. Sometimes with these new potting mix it is a good idea to water once and let drain then water again the next day as most potting mixes are dry and take a bit to water up, don’t overwater frangipani cuttings as they will rot at the base. Usually I do not water frangipani cuttings again after the first soaking until the first small leaves appear at the tip of the cutting buds.

Fertilise with a slow release fertiliser once leaves appear as per the recommended rate for the product. Slow release products such as Osmocote are available from Bunnings or your local hardware store and I usually select a 9-18 month product that is recommended for fruit trees or again for seedlings and flowering plants.

Once the plant has 5-6 large well developed leaves and a strong root system the plant can be re-potted into a larger feature pot or transferred into a permanent garden position to enjoy.

Testimonials

"Thanks Andy, you knew what you were talking about when you suggested the Singapore whites, they look amazing in our pool area! Andy was a pleasure to deal with, cannot wait for them to bloom."

"Wow, what a collection! I was looking everywhere for a red frangipani and finally found it here. Healthy cuttings, awesome packaging, great prices, highly recommend."

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"My princess in pink and sunset red cuttings have rooted and are already putting out new leaves. Cannot wait to order more, thanks again!"

"I saw you on the news! I did not even know that so many different flowers existed. Thank you for the cuttings, cannot wait for them to flower."